First, new clothing is sewn predominantly in sweatshops around the world, often by women that are permanently enslaved to pay off a “debt” for the “privilege” of a “well paying” job - NOT.

Second, the used clothing business has effectively destroyed native garment industries in much of Africa and other developing countries because American cotton is so highly subsidized that our used clothing can be purchased more cheaply by them than those made with native fabrics and sewn by native seamstresses.

“T-Shirt Travels” is a documentary that should make us think twice about the easy fix. If you don’t have time to read the entire article or want to explain it easily to students here is a quick visual. Over time many of the links are disappearing; here is one for the book The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy“

The movie Life and Debt tells of the Free Trade Zone in Jamaica where  workers who sew for American corporations to earn the legal minimum wage of $30 U.S./week. The factories are offer incentives toforeign companies which are allowed to bring in shiploads of material tax-free and are immediately transported out after sewing. Over 10,000 women currently work under sub-standard work conditions. In order to ensure the employment offered, Jamaica agreed to the stipulation that no unionization is permitted in the Free Trade Zones. When the women have attempted to organize  they are fired and blacklisted to prevent them from working again. The jobs move on to next developing country desperate for work.

A new book Fugitive Denim: a Human and Sensible Approach of Global Textile Trade by Rachel Louise Snyder tells part of the complex story of the textile trade, now & historically, acquired by traveling around the world and talking to workers and professionals in the trade.

Students Against Sweatshops at 25 universities are now boycotting or severing ties with Russell Athletics/Jerzees until the company re-opens the Jerzees de Honduras facility at full capacity, re-hires all union workers and complete the collective bargaining process.

We Americans consider ourselves to be generous people as we assuage our guilt about buying new clothing by giving away our slightly worn or out of date cast offs to charity but the net effect is a global economy turned upside down. Still, we are faced with the dilemma of what to do.

• Worn thin? Goodwill or Salvation Army will turn into rags.
• Stained? Sew or iron a patch, applique. Tie die the garment - stains get lost in the patterns.
• Missing buttons, open seams, broken zippers? Fix yourself or take to a dry cleaners or find a seamstress/tailor. Keeps Americans employed at decent wages
• Gained/lost weight? Style dated?  A good tailor can take in or let out seams and can even re-fashion professional clothing to reflect current fashion trends
• Repair and tailoring are skilled trades that keep Americans employed at decent wages.
• Just itching for  a change or something different? Look for clothing swaps online or plan an even with friends
• If you must buy new,
  • Search out  items made of organic or sustainably harvested fabrics by fairly paid and treated workers.
  • Be willing to pay more  for both American /union/Fair Trade made goods.
  • Ethical doesn’t have to mean giving up style. Ethical Style will send you the latest trends daily via FB or Twitter.
• The fashion industry itself is just discovering Zero Waste and trying to apply it to the cutting room floor and Parsons New School for design will offer a course in zero waste. As Tim Gunn likes to say, “Carry on”.